fbpx

Traderous Instinct – Maximizing Your Collection

Not Just Another Financial Value Column

Luis Scott Vargas. Antoine Ruel. Brad Nelson. Chas Andres.

One of these names is not like the others.

While I can take down my FNM some weeks, I am certainly not among the best in the world. Heck, I’ve never even played in a GP, and my only Pro Tour experience comes in the form of a side draft I did while visiting PT: San Diego last year. And no, I didn’t even win that.

What I am is a writer with a strong sense of entrepreneurship and a great love for the game of Magic.

My personal love for trading has helped me build and sustain a collection that allows me to play a tier-1 deck in any format I want. Even more importantly, I survived eight months of unemployment by buying and selling Magic cards online when I first moved to California after college.

I’m not here to teach you how to be the C. Montgomery Burns of card games. If you want to do that, go bankrupt some former Soviet republic and leave Magic alone.

I am here to help give you advice on how to manage your collection, make fair and effective trades, make smart decisions when pre-ordering and speculating, and to examine some odd areas of Magic finance that very few others have spent much time thinking about.

Why You Should Care

Let’s face it. Magic today is more expensive to play than it’s ever been.

The game has grown up around my generation of twentysomething players, and it’s no shock that the value of cards exploded when we all started leaving the house and getting jobs.

Mythics don’t help, either. They’ve been great for the game in terms of helping to attract new players, but they’ve pushed the most important cards in standard into the pricing stratosphere. Sure, the Worldwake manlands might have been $10 each if Jace hadn’t been printed, but that’s a small consolation to anyone who wants to play blue this year.

This doesn’t mean that we all have go out and play Elves, but the current Magic economy makes it essential for all of us to spend more time thinking about how we view and manage our collections.

One of my main goals in writing this column for ChannelFireball is to get more people trading. Regardless of whether or not you currently enjoy trading, I would argue that it is in your best interests to give it a shot. After all, if trading is fun for you, then that means that you have a fun sub-game to play in between every round of Magic at a tournament. And the prize for winning? Not having to shell out for that tier-1 standard or legacy deck you wanted.

But before you begin trading, let’s take a comprehensive look at managing a resource that most of us don’t spend enough time thinking about: the cards you already have.

Follow the Scrapdiver Serpent

You draft. You play sealed. Sometimes you buy a box of the latest set.

After plucking out the Ulamogs, Frost Titans, and Mox Opals for decks and your trade binder, what do you do with the rest of your cards?

How many booster boxes do you have that are filled with gutted, half-sleeved limited decks? How many stacks of Alara block commons are piled in your closet? How many Mudbutton Clangers are stuck in your glove compartment from an LLL draft in October 2007?

Go through your house and find all of your bulk cards. Put them all on your table, desk, or bed, and start sorting through them one at a time. Put anything that is constructed playable in one stack, put the lands in a second stack, put the tokens/tip cards in a third, and put everything else in a fourth.

If you have a friend who is Captain Cardcyclopedia, this is the time to invite him over and order him a pizza. Trust me – it’s worth the investment. (Note to SoCal residents: I like mushrooms and meatballs on my pie.)

Friend or not, I guarantee you that you’ll find some hidden gems here. There’s probably a rare or two that you drafted and forgot about as well as some foil lands that you picked up thirteenth and fourteenth pick.

Of course, the real goldmine lies in the commons and uncommons.

Did you open some Blightnings at the Shards prerelease? If so, I bet they never made it out of the bulk pile you put them in that evening. There are many cards that look ok early in a format that turn out to be constructed playable later on. It is important to go back and check these piles now, as the value of these cards can add up in a hurry.

If you have an older collection, you might find some stuff that was fringe playable at the time but is now popular in Eternal and casual formats. Did you pull all of the Ward Slivers? How about Exhume? Or Reanimate? Or Lava Spike? Or Ancient Grudge? The list of commons and uncommons worth more than a buck each is hundreds of cards long.

If you don’t know what commons and uncommons are valuable and you don’t have a friend who does, it’s time to put your research hat on. If your collection is recent, check out the decks that have been doing well in standard recently. Chances are the cards that keep cropping up are worth pulling out. Store and website buylists are another good resource as well.

In the end, you should have a thick stack of trade-able assets that would have otherwise sat around your apartment gathering dust. Put them aside until later – we’ll get back to them soon enough.

Land Ho!

Having all your land separated out from your bulk is a very useful thing.

First, it saves you time when you’re building decks. You don’t have to search all through creation for that fourteenth mountain, for example. When you draft at home with friends, you won’t have to say, “okay, Islands are Forests and Plains are Swamps,” because that’s all you can find.

Second, it makes proxying easier. And if you’re a serious constructed player, chances are you should be proxying a lot more than you already are. The more testing you can do before acquiring the cards you think you’ll need, the less energy you’ll expend getting cards that you will ultimately dismiss.

Third, land is about to get more desirable. Starting with the Mirrodin Besieged prerelease, stores won’t be able to request land kits for free anymore. Instead, Wizards is going to charge them for each basic land they want. And since most stores use this land for months afterward to fuel their limited events, this is a big change.

If you have extra land in good condition, hold onto it for a few months. Come springtime, your local store will be glad to accept a couple thousand basic lands in exchange for a reasonable amount of store credit.

The Bottom of the Barrel

After your big search, you will probably be left with a couple thousand cards of “true bulk” – cards that not even the fringiest constructed deck will play.

You know who does want them, though? Kitchen table casual players and set collectors!

If you have the time, the desire, and A LOT of cards, you can think about starting to assemble common and uncommon sets for each expansion. Since sorting cards while watching sitcom reruns is my favorite way of unwinding after a long day at work, I tend to favor doing stuff like this. If you don’t enjoy it, though, it’s not worth your time.

I like to at least keep a playset of each common and uncommon for my own deck building purposes, but your mileage may vary.

After you’re done trying to build sets, pack up the rest of your bulk in 1,000 count boxes.
I’ve had good luck selling these on Craigslist to new and casual players who are just looking to add volume to their collection. Don’t misrepresent what they are and you’ll still be able to get near $10/thousand for them if you are willing to wait a few weeks for the right buyer.

All That Glitters

Now it’s time to look at your foils.

Most trading articles will tell you to de-pimp your decks and trade away your foreign cards and shiny things because you can get the same amount of playability out of your non-foils.

If you aren’t really into pimp cards, this is a good plan. You can certainly get a premium for your sweet foils and rarities. The difference between your half-foil EDH deck and a non-foil version of that same EDH deck might give you enough value to snag a couple of Primeval Titans or that last dual land you need.

However, I don’t agree with people who say that it’s important to sever all attachment to your cards because “you can always get another copy of them.” While this is true with common Standard staples, it simply isn’t true when it comes to rarities and cards that hold sentimental value.

This is a collectable card game, and there is a subset of us who love nothing more than collecting the most interesting, obscure cards possible. I’m not going to trade my Gotta Magazine Archangel promo. Why? I’ve only ever seen one copy of it ever, and it’s in my collection.

Also, foils are undervalued compared to how rare they are! Foil rares and mythics are usually only worth about twice as much as their non-foil counterparts, though they are actually much, much rarer than that. Remember that each booster box has 36 non-foil rares and, on average, one foil rare.

What does this mean? If you trade away a specific foil and then regret it later, you’ll probably have to go online to get it back.

Of course, hoarding all your foils like some kind of deranged magpie isn’t helping you in the slightest. Use common sense when deciding which ones to keep, and which ones to trade away.

At this point, you should sort out the foils that you aren’t using in decks into two piles: playable and junk.

More and more people are now using their junk foils to make foil proxies. Modern foils make it easy to remove the card’s art while keeping the foil layer, which you can then run through a printer in order to print what you want on it. I know a few people who have mocked up their own set and printed it on foils.

Keep your pile of junk foils handy and ask around your LGS to see if anyone is making foil proxies or home-brew sets. If so, then you can probably get a decent deal trading them your entire stack. If not, you may want to consider de-arting them yourself. I’ve never tried this personally, but I would guess having a page of blank foils in your book might actually trade reasonably well.

(Note: Please DO NOT attempt to make fake cards this way. You will get caught, fined, and probably banned from Magic for life. Even if you are making something obviously fake like a foil Black Lotus, remember that you are using images that are owned by WoTC. Selling them is absolutely illegal.)

Once you’re done figuring out your junk foils, put your playable foils aside. We’ll get to them later, too.

Raring To Go

Finally – the rares!

If you’re like most people, your rare binder is one of two things. Either it is very large and contains every rare you have, or it is very small and only contains high end constructed playables.

Both of these approaches are fine, but we can do better.

First, go through your collection and pull out all the bulk rares. Every Thorn Elemental, every Loxodon Peacekeeper, and every Final Fortune.

Got them all? Good.

Now look them up. All of them. Even the ones you know are crap.

You don’t have to go far. This very site is a great resource to use.

Unless you work in a game store pricing singles, I bet you’ll find one or two surprises in there. I know I’ve found more than my share or Darksteel Forges ($7.49) and Mycosynth Golems ($11.99) hiding in people’s bulk boxes.

You’ll also notice that there is a difference here, too, between “true bulk,” which are cards that sell for $0.25, and “looks like bulk,” which are cards that can sell from $0.50 up to a couple of bucks.

Since card stores set their prices based on the laws of supply and demand, you can assume that there is demand for all the cards worth more than $0.25. All of them deserve a spot in your trade binder.

By the same token, cards that sell for the bare minimum have almost no demand. However, most dealers will pay $0.10 a card for rares, no matter how awful they are. That doesn’t seem like much, but it adds up quickly and saves you from hauling around a box of cards that no one will ever trade for.

Unless you are very familiar with values, at this point I would take some time and look up all of your other rares as well. It is time consuming, but knowing the prices of your card will keep you from being taken advantage of in trades.

Keep your $10+ cards in a separate pile for now. We’ll get to them after one more section.

Storage Wars

Some people will tell you to keep your for-trade cards in a box.

They are wrong.

If you keep your cards in a box, there’s a good chance someone will walk off with some of them. Or you will drop your box and the cards will go everywhere. Then people will stomp all over them while laughing at you.

Seriously – don’t store your cards in a box.

Other people will tell you that it’s ok to store multiple cards in the same pocket of your binder. These people are wrong too.

Not only does it cause a slight bend on the sides of the cards, but it means you will CONSTANTLY be buying new binder pages since you will be stretching out all of your pages with varying numbers of cards. And if you don’t buy new pages, then you will find yourself with a ton of cards that won’t stay put in your binder. Which means you’ll find them crumpled up in the bottom of your backpack the following morning.

Two cards per sleeve, one facing each direction, and the plastic won’t stretch.

I also recommend making sure that any cards you have are stored in D-ring binders as opposed to C-ring binders. (If you don’t know the difference, a quick search on Staples.com should enlighten you.) D-ring binders mostly minimize the chance of binder dings on cards stored in the pockets that rest against the rings.

Condition isn’t the biggest thing in the world to most people, but there’s no reason not to try and keep your cards looking as good as you can, right?

As an aside, I rock a Jansport Big Student Backpack as my card transport device of choice. It’s the largest backpack I could find online for under $30, and it has enough room for 3 mid-sized binders, 3 fat pack boxes filled with my extra stock, and 4 deck boxes. I highly recommend it.

In any case, once you have a D-ring binder and enough ultra-pro pocket pages, it’s time to lay out your trade binder.

Think of it as the Gated Community Next to your Regular Binder

Oh – did I tell you one binder was enough? If you really want to do this right, you need a second, smaller binder too. Take your stack of $10+ rares, and sort by color in this smaller binder.

This is the binder that you pull out when someone requests a card by name or there’s something you absolutely need to have.

Most people say to make separate binders because it will allow you to trade from cheaper cards to pricier ones, but there’s another good reason, too: it helps prevent you from impulsively trading away your biggest assets. Cards that trade for $10 and over should only be traded for other expensive cards if possible. If you keep your fetchlands out of sight until you absolutely need them, you will be less likely to break your set of Marsh Flats in order to snag a couple of mid-range standard rares that might be kind of fun to brew with.

If you aren’t going with a separate binder, I recommend putting the valuable cards together either in the front or back of your binder. This will help you become more aware of when you’re trading one of them away.

Building the Perfect Beast

Now it’s time to assemble the main binder! I have mine divided into four sections: Standard, Extended/Legacy, Casual/EDH, and foils. I then have the cards further divided by color.

Some people divide even further than this, usually alphabetically by set or something. This is a bad plan, as it creates a ton of work for something that will be almost completely undone by one or two trades. You don’t want to find yourself constantly shifting each card down by one pocket.

I personally only include one copy of each card in my binder and keep the extras in fat pack boxes that stay in my backpack. This works well because it keeps people interested in my binder as opposed to having their eyes glaze over by the time they’ve glanced at Magma Phoenix number five.

It also creates the illusion of artificial scarcity. People will give you more for that Clone if it’s the only one in your binder than if you have twelve of them spilling onto a second page.

Unfortunately, having boxes on top of binders makes managing my collection very time consuming. I take a picture of each trade I make, and then after a tournament I have to go through my boxes and search to see if I have any more copies of the cards I gave up.

If you’re just getting in to trading, I recommend just putting all your copies of every card into your binder. It is so much easier to manage.

Good Job!

At this point, your collection should be nicely organized. You’ve got two binders, one with your $10+ rares, and one with all of your other rares, commons, and uncommons worth more than $0.25 each. Then you have a stack of bulk rares to sell to a store or dealer, a stack of bulk foils to sell to a proxy-maker, a box of land, and 1,000 count boxes of bulk commons and uncommons to sell on Craigslist or to give to that nephew who really should be playing Magic by now.

You probably also have your personal collection of “no way am I ever trading this stuff,” including your current constructed decks as well as any casual or EDH decks you have.

Now all you have to do is bring your trade stuff to FNM and keep your goal in mind!

If you are really just starting out, I would even come up with some mini-goals along the way. Here are a few you can use:

– Trade two $5 cards for a $10 card.
– Trade a standard staple for an eternal staple.
– Trade for one of the good planeswalkers.
– Trade a card you think will lose value for a card you think will gain value.

Before you know it, you’ll be well on your way to having just as much fun between rounds at FNM as when you’re playing.

Pick of the Week

At the end of each column, I am going to include a card that I think is likely to go up in value. Instead of just throwing these out there and forgetting about them if they don’t pan out, I will keep track of them for the next few weeks and see how I’ve done. Hopefully we’ll catch a few gems before they hit their prime.

Pick of the Week 12/6: [card]Kalastria Highborn[/card] – Worldwake

Now that Vampire Aggro has firmly established itself as a tier 1 standard deck, it is important to pay attention to the rares that make the deck hum.

Vampire Aggro uses playsets of Bloodghast, Kalastria Highborn, Blade of the Bloodchief, and Verdant Catacombs. It also uses 2 copies of Dark Tutelage as well as the on-color duals. With no mythics, this makes Vampire Aggro the cheapest tier-1 deck right now.

Bloodghast is already a $7 rare, so there’s not much room for it to grow. The lands are already used in so many decks that this one’s playability shouldn’t affect their value much. Dark Tutelage is a 2-of and shouldn’t be hard to acquire for a buck or so, and Blade of the Bloodchief has already made a leap from about $0.50 to almost $3.
That leaves Kalastria Highborn.

Highborn was a $5 all day long at trade tables back when Vampire Nocturnus was roaming the skies, meaning people are used to her being at that price point. Don’t underestimate this – cards that used to be worth more in the past have an easier time making gains than cards that haven’t. Up until a few days ago, Kalastria Highborn could be found nearly everywhere online for about $2.50. ChannelFireball just raised their price, but it’s still only $3.50.

I expect this card to trade around $5 already to people building the deck, and I would be surprised if it doesn’t hit that mark at stores and online before the season is out.

Until next time –
– Chas Andres

37 thoughts on “Traderous Instinct – Maximizing Your Collection”

  1. great read. good to break away from gameplay articles once in a while. looking forward to your next article!

  2. Yeah, all of the foil power nine on eBay were made illegally. They’re using WOTC copyrights for their own profit.

    I also learned a little bit more about acetone and foils since I wrote this last week. Another good option is to just dip the corner of the foil in acetone and then use tape to peel the foil layer so that you can get a blank white card with a Magic back. My awesome LGS owner does this and then prints the name and rules text of expensive cards on it for people to use in her proxy vintage tournaments.

  3. Dang. Good thing I never bought any.

    Anyway, great article! Your storage advice for fledgling traders is particularly useful. Also, I had no idea that Mycosynth Golems were twelve bucks.

  4. Brian Weller-Gordon

    Matt: Foil cards were not printed back when the power nine were printed, any foil ones on ebay are ones that people have either taken and foiled or done themselves, though I wouldn’t expect all of that to be illegal

  5. Great article.

    Your blog looks like a great read as well, I really enjoy trading.

    As a matter of fact, I have about 3 hours of Calc homework to do and you’re making me procrastinate. How dare you.

  6. Zur, The Enchanter

    I have a bunch of old Exhume, but I don’t know the prices of all the old stuff.
    And I don’t have a friend who can do it, and I live in San Jose.
    What would really make this article useful would be to publish or link to a list of ALL the commons worth over a dollar. Is there any engine that would search for that?

  7. Is this taking the place of Trade Routes? I must say this looks like quite an improvement. It seemed like the other article was running out of gas.

    Also, it looks like LSV has some competition in the pun-wars!

  8. Trade Routes is sticking around. We just picked up another writer for trades, etc. Welcome Aboard Chas!

  9. Awesome, I was really hoping you’d start writing articles for one of the big sites. This man knows what he’s talking about.

  10. I was just starting to re-sort my collection when I got derailed from the project a couple months ago. Thanks for writing this, as now I have a good plan to follow to get back on track. I could definitely use the storage space. Looking forward to more articles in the future.

  11. I am exactly the player you described in your “Follow the Scrapdiver Serpent” paragraph. i.e. I draft, I play sealed and I will buy a box of the latest set. I do not, however, follow standard, legacy or EDH. Although you suggest to seperate cards that are >$10 into another folder, there is still alot of price varation within that folder. What advice would you give somebody like me as to how I can prevent getting taken advantage of during a trade between rounds? Since I don’t know the price of the cards off the top of my head do I pull out my smartphone and check CB’s price list and base it off of that? Do you find that this type of behavior turns off many traders?

  12. I actually do price singles at a card store.

    That said, good read.

    Also, if you are a seasoned FNM guy, read about budget alternatives to major decks. Our place is in love with UB control. Sphinx of Jwar Isle trades well. So do the black rares from Rise.

  13. SiegeX –

    Smartphone trading will turn off traders for two reasons: one is that they want to take advantage of you, which means using a smartphone is a good thing because it will keep you from getting ripped off. The second reason is that it takes an eternity on some phones, and some people want to look up the price of every card in every deal, along with every card in their binder that the other player might be interested in.

    Play it smart – if you know the approximate value of the card, there’s no need. If you don’t know the value or you think you’re getting taken, no one should mind you looking up a few prices in your phone!

    Another option: instead of sorting the $10+ binder by color, sort it by value. ($10 cards on the first page, $12 cards on the second, etc.) That way, you always know the value of your cards.

    If you’re using price guides or smart phones, don’t freak out if you’re down a couple bucks either way. Your binder will fluctuate in value more than that over the weekend just because of what deck wins a die roll at GP: Toiletsburg. You don’t want to pass on a trade due to a couple bucks and then decide to go home and shell out cash for the same cards online. That’s not good value for anyone!

  14. Chas: Thanks for the reply. Great article BTW, it really hit home. I like the sorting by price suggestion. To that end, do you know of any software (preferably free) that I can use to catalog my Uncommons / Rares and have it do daily price updates from a user definable source? It would be nice if I could tell it to pull from a source like magiccards.info which already have done the legwork to give me a Low/Ave/High price across ~20 different retailers.

  15. I liked this. Welcome aboard. Good things to remember for everyone with stacks and piles of cards lying around (read: basically everyone that plays this game).

  16. This was the best article I have read on trading. Not only was it very insightful and full of useful information, but it was also very well written and enjoyable to read.

    I’m really looking forward to seeing more articles like this. I already follow some of the practices you’ve laid out, but I definitely learned a lot.

  17. I love going through collections i bought and bulk from treasure hunting. I try to comb through them a few times, my last run through I overlooked a playset of Engineered Plague, 2 diabolic edicts, and 2 goblin ringleaders. Planning on checking the prices of most commons/uncommons from my bulk once i have everything organized, just to see what i have i may have overlooked. Even from my rav/time spiral drafting days I sometimes come across random stuff that I have been overlooking, and constantly amongst my bulk and in random pockets of the house i’ll pick up piles of card and flip out stuff. I know i have a box somewhere with 2-3 rav duals, some niv-mizzets, and a few notable commons/uncommons from ravnica like remands and such.

    I never underestimate values in rares. Thanks to formats like EDH there’s a demand for just about any legend, and EDH players are willing to pay good premiums on generals they particularly want. Some of them aren’t expensive value-wise, but not ones you see in your average FNM trade binder. Since I played during kamigawa through to time spiral I have a mix of legends kicking around and try to keep them in the binder if an EDH player sees it and wants to build a deck. Some players will also treat cards like pithing needle, birds of paradise, howling mine, etc as bulk rares while most of those are still worth $2 online. If you’re just looking to maximize your collection and available rares, don’t disregard things like these because you never know when someone will show up wanting your playset of hypnotic specters after 50 other traders don’t even want to look at them.

  18. Hope you was here at my home with me, in Canary Islands, i invite you to the food and the place to sleep, i´m sure you will enjoy my collect .

    Nice article, fun to read it and very educational.

  19. Pingback: MTGBattlefield

  20. This year i fashioned a wonderful bling-bling living room curtain from a whole bunch of unplayable bulk foils. Since its the western window, sundowns never are the same again. I ought to call it the “Rainbow Room” now!

    If you ever have the luxury of having too many unplayable foils noone wants to trade for, give it a try!

    Also: Thanks for this inspiring article!

  21. Right now I should be spending my time studying for my Physics exam, but this was definitely worth the read. Like your writing style and I found this very interesting. Because let’s face it. Who hasn’t watched Everybody Loves Raymond and sorted through all of your Lorwyn cards your never going to use again…

  22. Overall very interesting article. I like the idea of keeping your $10+ rares in a separate binder; it makes for a strong trade mentality. Good call.
    Your claim, however, that “Other people will tell you that it’s ok to store multiple cards in the same pocket of your binder. These people are wrong.” conflicts with your other claim that people should decide what their time is worth when dealing with trades. You admit yourself that you spend an inordinate amount of time replacing the rares from your boxes in your binder. Taking a photo of every trade you make?! This sounds reasonable if you are in a competition, or something, but jeebus, how long do most people have to spend futzing around with their trade binders?
    I love collector articles. (I really like Trade Routes too) Keep ’em coming.

  23. It is also worth noting that when bulking your rares off to a dealer, it pays to shop around. There are typically 3 or more dealers at a big event. It may not seem like so much difference to sell to the dime/rare guy instead of the $0.13 one, but if you’re selling off 200 cards that will be a $6 difference. That’s a pretty decent payout for walking across the event hall and saying “What is your bulk rate?”

  24. I’m curious if you have any advice on what to do when your collection is all older. My stuff is something like Revised through Homelands and includes a lot of junk, but some gems like Library of Alexandria and plenty of old dual lands.

    And I do mean trading for modern cards, not selling for cash.

  25. @Max: If you can’t trade the stuff locally to get modern cards, i.e. not a big legacy/vintage community in your area, I’d recommend using something like MOTL(http://magictraders.com/) to run some online trades. There are plenty of people there, myself included, that would love to ship some quality standard stuff for Libraries and Duals, often at a good premium as well. It also ensures that you will get fair value for your stuff as you have plenty of time to check prices when negotiating a trade rather than winging it in person if you’re not adept on the values of everything.

  26. I liked this article alot, because it emphasized the fun part of trading, something ive recently come to enjoy while trading for stuff I actually need!

  27. @Chas

    Remember, for newer traders especially, sorting your money cards by price is just asking to be taken by a shark that keeps close tabs on fluctuating card prices.

    Did I read that in one of your Quiet Speculation articles?

  28. @ Forcemage –

    Storing multiple cards in the same binder page is wrong because it will damage your cards as well as your pocket sleeves. You don’t have to use boxes, but I strongly recommend you store each card in its own pocket. If you have multiples, put them next to each other.

    @ Hawaii –

    It’s true that sorting cards by price opens you up to trading things for less when they go up, but I don’t think it’s really that big a problem. Trading a card at $3 when it goes to $5 is part of life – we all do it, and you can’t let it get to you. Trading an $8 card for $1 because you didn’t know or forgot the value of your card just sucks.

    It’s not the most ideal method of sorting cards, mind, but it works well for some people who might not otherwise want to trade because they don’t want to memorize the price of 1,000 cards.

  29. Pingback: Traderous Instinct – A Trip Back in Time, Part One : Magic: The Gathering – Strategy, Singles, Cards, Decks

Comments are closed.

Scroll to Top